As I wandered into Huntington Park at dawn at the top of Nob Hill, the sun strained against the horizon, casting long strands of gold and purple across the early morning sky.

Then, a still breeze rustled leaves in the trees, as a flock of excited birds flew directly overhead and alighted nearby.

Before me – the “Fountain of Tortoises”  - hinted at a bygone era of romance and elegance.

The decorative sculpture is a copy of – “La Fontana Delle Tartarughe” – originally set as a centerpiece in the Piazza Mattei in Rome. The original was designed in 1581 by Giacomo della Porta with sculpted bronze figures crafted by Taddeo Landini.

Pope Alexander VII commissioned Gian Lorenzo Bernini to restore the fountain in 1658-1659. As a result, the featured dolphins fell into oblivion and were summarily replaced with struggling tortoises, instead.

William and Ethel Crocker donated a replica of the original which was installed at Huntington Park after gracing their garden for a number of years.

The Angels appear ready to herald a new dawn.

To my right, a few seniors (mostly Asian) arched their backs gracefully for a moment. Then, each torso half turned – as if to defy gravity – as arms and legs seemingly “pulled” and “pushed” the still air in a surreal fashion.

I was captivated by their serene faces and an inner glow which appeared to emanate from within the very core of their mortal coils.

Ah, the ancient practice of Tai Chi. And, the inner smile revealing itself, in a Divine moment.

Meanwhile, elsewhere in the lush finely-manicured park, a rag-tag band of exercise enthusiasts plied their limbs and focused on the task at hand.

I silently turned on my heel and headed in the direction of Grace Cathedral (across the street) to attend morning service.

The Cathedral is a descendant of the original Church built in the gold rush year of 1849 – destroyed in the 1908 earthquake – and rebuilt on property donated by the Crocker Family.

At Grace, there is not only a keen awareness of the spiritual, but also a forward-thinking philosophy about the “oneness” (unity) of all things.

Inside, the front door, a statue of St. Francis stands with arms out-stretched,  and captures the lofty ideal that Grace Cathedral is.

“A House of Prayer for all people”.

For starters, the Church is an inner space that not only resonates with spirit – a perfect respite from it all in a moment of prayer – but one that also provides an opportunity for insightful contemplation about the wondrous mysteries of life.

In addition, there are a number of exquisite religious artifacts to view.

The “Doors of Paradise”, for instance, were created by Florentine sculptor Lorenze Ghiberti and originally fashioned for the Baptistery of a Florence Cathedral. Their shimmering gold surfaces are awesome and warrant an up-close inspection.

Ghiberti was one of the first artists to apply relief and linear perspective on such a grand scale. Indeed – Grace Cathedral’s “Doors of Paradise” – tower at 16 feet and each door weighs one-and-a-third tons.

Ghiberti chose ten familiar narratives as subjects for the main panels, which were taken from the first books of the Bible, ranging from Genesis to Kings. Each panel contains several scenes from each story, which are not only shaped by scripture and Christian interpretation, but also by commentaries of the early church fathers and well.

The border panels display Old Testament figures relating to and commenting on the adjacent main panels which are accompanied by busts cast in a similar vein.

The first panel features the creation, temptation, fall and expulsion of Adam and Eve. The awesome detailed artistry includes the ”cosmic egg” design of the sublime creation of Eve and the poignant backward glance of Eve outside the gate of Eden.

Some argue that the adjacent “Cain and Abel” panel is more powerful, which contrasts  quiet pastoral scenes with Cain’s murder of the favored Abel.

Here,  the guilty Cain asks God, “Am I my brother’s keeper?”

The Gothic-style rocky crags seem to echo Cain’s violence.

Other marvels include the exquisitely executed stained-glass windows throughout the Cathedral (particularly those by the French Loire studios and Charles Counick which feature modern figures as Thurgood Marshall, Robert Frost, and Albert Einstein) ; the stunning murals completed in the 1940’s by Polish artist John de Rosen; and the 44-bell Carillon.

In addition to a spiritual aura that resonates within her sacred walls, Grace manages to uplift spirits, too, by virtue of regular Church services throughout the week which include inspiring musical performances by a myriad of celebrated artists ( with organ recitals on Sundays).

Grace’s male choir has gloriously engaged in song since their inception in 1906. Later,  a boys choir was added to regular service in 1913.

The centuries-old tradition of men and boys choirs has since blossomed here and there around the country at other Churches since then.

The Grace choir is composed of 14 choir men and 21 choristers who have long-standing ties with the community. For instance, the boys of the choir are usually students at the Cathedral School for Boys.

The Cathedral Camerata is a mixed voice ensemble that sings a diverse repertoire of – chant, Renaissance, and Baroque mottes and anthems – as well as newly composed sacred works.

A unique attraction is the Labyrinth.

What is a Labyrinth?

The sacred “curiosity” is an archetype of a divine imprint found in many religious traditions in various forms around the globe.

By walking the labyrinth, an individual is capable of discovering,

“A long forgotten mystical tradition insisting to be reborn,” according to  insightful Rv. Dr. Lauren Artress.

Labyrinths entered “Christian Prayer life” during the Middle Ages after they were incorporated into cathedrals around Europe.

The “Medieval Eleven Circuit Labyrinth” is replicated on the floor of the Chartes Cathedral where it was placed in 1201.

People around the world use the Labyrinth today to quiet the mind, gain insight – and ultimately – find balance and harmony in their lives.

The “Grace After Hours” program provides the opportunity to walk the labyrinth and learn about its history, in addition to facilitating it as a spiritual tool, as well.

Before departing from the Lord’s House, slip into the AIDS Interfaith Chapel.

The Chapel opened its doors for the first time on December 1st, 1995, after the bell tolled at Grace Cathedral in Honor of “World AIDS Day”.

The Chapel is a memorial for those who died from AIDS.

The sacred altar here is a place of meditation and healing and remembrance for caregivers and those who are still fighting the disease.

Throughout the ages, stories of each community have been told through their house of worship by virtue of artifacts, stained Glass,  and sermons.

San Francisco’s chapter in the “AIDS” epidemic is recalled through the auspices of the Interfaith Chapel.

The Chapel is a holy place where many come  to pay their respects.

But, in the final analysis, Interfaith Chapel underscores that San Francisco is a community that is compassionate, embracing, and concerned. 

The altar was made possible due to the persistent fundraising efforts of community members, local celebrities, and politicians alike.

Inside, there is a stunning altarpiece: The Triptych of the Life of Christ.

Pop Artist Keith Haren – who was commissioned to craft the piece – started off spontaneously with a simple mound of fresh clay. Then, the talented visionary facilitated a bronze and white gold patina for the original castings.

The center panel depicts the Christ child, cradled by a number of arms below a radiant heart. Also, there is a healing shower of tears etched below an image of Christ which rests on a cross above.

On the right panel – figures ascend to heaven – as an angel falls on the left.

The Interfaith Chapel is a sacred place where generosity of spirit prevails.

Critics hail the Harin piece as a masterful work that is not only accessible but one that speaks to many people.

In addition, there is a handmade “Book of Remembrance” that is preserved under glass. Within its precious pages, the names of people who have died of AIDS – along with the dates of their birth and death - are inscribed.

The book serves as a testament to the loss shared by the community.

I’d be remiss if I did not also mention that since 1995, Grace Cathedral has engaged in many insightful and enlightening conversations with renowned authorities from the world of politics, activism, spirituality and the arts through their program – the Forum – which podcasts each Sunday morning at 9:30-10:30.  (except for holidays)

A few months ago – I caught vampire writer Anne Rice – discussing her new book on the “childhood” of Jesus Christ. On the occasion of that intriguing appearance, the best-selling author noted that she has  - henceforth – decided to devote her writing gifts to “God”.

Well, after a visit to Grace Cathedral, most are inclined to do that; after all, the experience is so spiritually overwhelming and uplifting.

 

 

http://www.julianayrs.com